![]() ![]() People on here have said to use small shims, or a glue product, to tighten up the connection, if needed. The keyway can wear there, and that makes the governor work slower than it should. Look closely when putting the gear in and see that the oil seal lip doesn't turn backwards, it won't seal if it does.Ĭheck for wear of the shaft back and forth where the key number 6 is in the parts pic, hold the one piece, and turn the other piece. The magneto drive slot should be turned like in the pic I posted. Remember the gear turns some as you put it in again. I don't know if you want to replace the seal or not.Īlign the timing marks when putting the governor in again. It looks like in your pic the oil seal is not leaking, unless you cleaned it. Look at the surface the oil seal runs on, if it is rusty, dirty, or rough, clean it, and sand it with some fine sandpaper, and smooth it. Play there can make the governor work bad. The 2 pins that hold the weights on can get worn, and the holes can get worn, work them around and see that there is no play from wear. You might want to take the governor to a clean bench and open it and see if everything looks good, and clean it if needed. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vintage SEARS Craftsman Advance Timing Light 161. The insides of the governor can pull out of the case, keep them in the case if you can so the bearing doesn't fall off. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold the governor on the engine. Then the shaft assembly will pull out of the governor. You need to remove the governor to do that.īelow is a page from the Baler parts manual, showing the governor and connections.įirst you need to remove the throttle rod from the top of the governor, then the pin number 3 in the parts pic, and the 2 bolts that hold number 5 onto the engine. You need to change the mesh of the governor gear, with the idler gear. TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has a new governor gear oil seal. If you have to remove the governor to change the gear teeth position, if the oil seal at the drive leaks, you could replace it while you have the governor off. The mark on the idler gear is on the side of the gear facing the rear, you see it looking in from the rear, like the 1st pic is, but after removing the governor. The 3rd pic shows timing mark on the idler gear, it drives the governor gear. The 2nd pic shows the timing mark on the governor gear, it is at the left in the pic. They should be aligned when the engine is at number 1 cylinder TDC. Sometimes people have the engine apart, or the governor off, and don't align the gear teeth right. What kind of timing light are you using Many lights have trouble reading the MSDs capacitive discharge multiple sparks. The drive is made on the governor drive gear. If the drive is turned to another position, you probably won't be able to time the magneto correctly. ![]() The 1st pic below shows how the magneto drive should be turned when the engine is at number 1 cylinder TDC. Part of this info is the same as Jim posted above. If you can't get the timing to adjust correctly, it could have this problem below. After this test I will not worry about the digital light giving me false readings.Below is a page from the Baler engine owner's manual, telling how to time the magneto to the engine. I wanted to verify that my timing settings were what I thought they were. I had only used the digital light on this motor. After reading this thread I was worried that the newer digital light might be giving me some false readings. The only reason I conducted this test was to prove to that my timing settings were correct. The MSD box did not give any problems with either light used. I did the tests back to back several times and had no differences between either light. I got exactly the same readings with this light. It has no dial back capabilities just a straight up timing light. Second timing light old sears analog inductive light that I bought back in 1982. I could use the dial back to set the pointer at 0* and rev the motor to any rpm with steady readings. The timing was spot on at 18* with a total of 36* all in at 2800 rpm. All timing readings were done with the vaccum advance unhooked and plugged.įirst timing light is an Equus Innova 3568 digital timing light with tach and digital dial back capabilities. ![]() I have the springs set up so timing is all in by 2800 rpm. I have the vacuum advance hooked up to ported vacuum. I have my initial timing set at 18* with the 18* mechanical advance bushing installed for a total of 36*. I have a B&B timing pointer that was indexed at TDC when the motor was built. ![]() The ignition system is an MSD 6AL box with an MSD Pro Billet 8361 distributor. So today I decided to conduct an experiment with the two timing lights that I have.įirst off I have a 70 chevelle with a 383 motor. I have been following this thread with some interest. ![]()
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